In Part 5 of our LED Your RV series, we’re replacing our RV’s docking and patio lights with cool, bright, low-power LEDs. We’re also excited to announce our newest RVgeeks Contest! On September 15, 2014 at 8pm Pacific Time, one lucky RVgeeks viewer will win a $250 Online Shopping Certificate, which they can use to outfit their RV with brand new LEDs!
Watch the video for details, then enter for your chance to win!
By definition, “boondocking” means there’s no external source of electricity for your RV. But camping off the grid often means there’s no external source of outdoor light either. If you need light outside your RV at night, you’ll need to provide it yourself, at a time when you’re least likely to have power to spare.
We’ve been upgrading our RV’s interior lights to LEDs, but we also want plenty of exterior light available, while using as little power as possible. That means upgrading our incandescent patio and docking lights to LEDs, which are much brighter, but use only 1/4 to 1/6 the power. This video will show you how easy it is.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Sunday, August 31, 2014
Monday, August 25, 2014
How To Install an RV Window Awning
Window awnings keep your RV cooler and they're easy to install, too! We'll show you EVERY step needed to perform this simple DIY task with confidence.
Like many RVs, ours came from the factory with some awnings already in place. Of course we have a large main patio awning, one over the door, one over the bedroom window on the curb side, and a long one covering both living room windows on the driver's side.
The only large window without a dedicated awning is in the living room on the curb side. Obviously, the manufacturer assumed that the patio awning would do the job of blocking the sun from that window.
There are times when it's imprudent to have our main awning out, like on really windy days, or when we're away from the RV and don't want to risk damage in the event of a sudden weather change (considering the consequences, we'd rather not rely on our awning's wind sensor).
The worst scenario is a hot, windy day while we're dry camping, as we generally try to avoid running the generator for A/C unless it's absolutely needed. Blocking direct sun by using windshield screens and awnings makes a major difference in the comfort level inside the RV. As we always want the option of blocking the sun from the right-side living room window (especially since we often face that side of the rig to the south when we're boondocking), we need an awning specifically for that window.
Before placing our order for a matching A&E / Dometic awning, we noted the color code of the fabric and hardware from our original awnings and measured the window to determine what size we'd need. We're taking advantage of the extra space on each side to order one that's wider than usual, extending 9 inches out on each side of the window. That will keep more sun off the side of the RV and prevent it from raining in if we leave the window open on wet days.
We've had our rig for over 9 years, and we're finally installing that awning that we've always talked about. It's the perfect DIY project and we’ll show you exactly how it’s done. It's such an easy job that we're not sure what took us so long to finally get around to it!
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Like many RVs, ours came from the factory with some awnings already in place. Of course we have a large main patio awning, one over the door, one over the bedroom window on the curb side, and a long one covering both living room windows on the driver's side.
The only large window without a dedicated awning is in the living room on the curb side. Obviously, the manufacturer assumed that the patio awning would do the job of blocking the sun from that window.
There are times when it's imprudent to have our main awning out, like on really windy days, or when we're away from the RV and don't want to risk damage in the event of a sudden weather change (considering the consequences, we'd rather not rely on our awning's wind sensor).
The worst scenario is a hot, windy day while we're dry camping, as we generally try to avoid running the generator for A/C unless it's absolutely needed. Blocking direct sun by using windshield screens and awnings makes a major difference in the comfort level inside the RV. As we always want the option of blocking the sun from the right-side living room window (especially since we often face that side of the rig to the south when we're boondocking), we need an awning specifically for that window.
Before placing our order for a matching A&E / Dometic awning, we noted the color code of the fabric and hardware from our original awnings and measured the window to determine what size we'd need. We're taking advantage of the extra space on each side to order one that's wider than usual, extending 9 inches out on each side of the window. That will keep more sun off the side of the RV and prevent it from raining in if we leave the window open on wet days.
We've had our rig for over 9 years, and we're finally installing that awning that we've always talked about. It's the perfect DIY project and we’ll show you exactly how it’s done. It's such an easy job that we're not sure what took us so long to finally get around to it!
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Saturday, August 9, 2014
Do you keep your RV gray valve open? Closed? How about BOTH?!
Leaving your RV’s gray valve open when fully hooked up allows you to take long showers without worrying about dumping or filling up the gray tank. But what about sewer smells that can come up from the campground sewer system? Here’s how to get the best of both worlds!
One of the luxuries of staying in a full-hook-up campground is the ability to use water freely for showers, cooking and washing dishes. The sewer connection allows you to leave your RV’s gray valve open, so water can run right out instead of filling up your gray tank.
Of course the black valve can NEVER be left open, since “solids” will build up in the black holding tank when the “liquids” run out. But there’s a fair amount of discussion about the gray valve. Some people recommend that you should never leave the gray valve open either, as it can allow odors from the park’s sewer system up into your RV.
Leaving the gray valve closed does mean having to pay attention to the water level in the gray tank, and dumping it every few days. Seems like a shame to have to do that when your RV is connected to a sewer line, especially when you’re staying in a full hook-up site for an extended period of time.
Even though the drains under every sink and shower in an RV are equipped with a p-trap, there is a pipe with a direct connection to the sewer hose…. leading to the tank vents on the roof of the RV. This can allow air from the sewer system to come up through the roof vents. If you’ve ever smelled sewer odors in a full hook-up campground, it’s possible that someone’s RV is venting the park’s sewer system out through their roof.
In a recent RV Travel newsletter, we read about the simplest way imaginable to enjoy the luxury of a full hook-up RV park. You can leave your gray valve in the open position so water runs right down the drain. You don’t have to pay any attention to how full your gray tank is and you don’t have to dump it every few days. But there’s no chance for sewer odors to escape either. It’s the best of both worlds.
Watch the video to see how to do it!
Please use your full hook-up powers responsibly and don’t waste water!
Just a brief follow-up... Although this wasn't a video about tank dumping, it is related, and there were some comments and questions about it. If the gray valve is left open, there isn't any gray water available to flush the sewer hose after dumping the black tank. Here's how we handle that.
Conserving water and monitoring tank levels are just part of life for most RVers, so it's a luxury to be able to forget about it once in a while. When we're in a full hook-up RV park for an extended stay, leaving the gray valve open allows us to take longer showers, while completely ignoring the level in the gray tank. We just use the trick we demonstrated in the video to prevent sewer odors from coming in through the open gray valve.
Then all we need to do is keep an occasional eye on the black tank level. Since we often take the load (sorry) off the black tank by making periodic use of the park's bathrooms (as long as they're clean), it takes a solid (sorry again lol) two weeks or more to fill it up. When it shows 3/4 full, we close the gray valve for a day or two, allowing gray water to accumulate in the tank.
When we're ready to dump, we take a few seconds to put the entire sewer hose back up on the sewer hose support, then dump both tanks, black first of course. Plenty of water has now accumulated in the gray tank, allowing us to flush the sewer hose after dumping the black tank. When we stay in one place for an extended period, we appreciate being able to completely ignore both tanks for two-plus weeks at a time. This way of managing our tanks allows us to do that.
This is a perfectly fine way to handle shorter stays too. After boondocking for extended periods, we'll sometimes treat ourselves to the luxury of full hook-ups for a week or so, leaving the gray valve open and using the same sewer hose technique. We simply close the gray valve a day or two before we'll be leaving the park, and dump both tanks on the morning of our departure.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
One of the luxuries of staying in a full-hook-up campground is the ability to use water freely for showers, cooking and washing dishes. The sewer connection allows you to leave your RV’s gray valve open, so water can run right out instead of filling up your gray tank.
Of course the black valve can NEVER be left open, since “solids” will build up in the black holding tank when the “liquids” run out. But there’s a fair amount of discussion about the gray valve. Some people recommend that you should never leave the gray valve open either, as it can allow odors from the park’s sewer system up into your RV.
Leaving the gray valve closed does mean having to pay attention to the water level in the gray tank, and dumping it every few days. Seems like a shame to have to do that when your RV is connected to a sewer line, especially when you’re staying in a full hook-up site for an extended period of time.
Even though the drains under every sink and shower in an RV are equipped with a p-trap, there is a pipe with a direct connection to the sewer hose…. leading to the tank vents on the roof of the RV. This can allow air from the sewer system to come up through the roof vents. If you’ve ever smelled sewer odors in a full hook-up campground, it’s possible that someone’s RV is venting the park’s sewer system out through their roof.
In a recent RV Travel newsletter, we read about the simplest way imaginable to enjoy the luxury of a full hook-up RV park. You can leave your gray valve in the open position so water runs right down the drain. You don’t have to pay any attention to how full your gray tank is and you don’t have to dump it every few days. But there’s no chance for sewer odors to escape either. It’s the best of both worlds.
Watch the video to see how to do it!
Please use your full hook-up powers responsibly and don’t waste water!
Just a brief follow-up... Although this wasn't a video about tank dumping, it is related, and there were some comments and questions about it. If the gray valve is left open, there isn't any gray water available to flush the sewer hose after dumping the black tank. Here's how we handle that.
Conserving water and monitoring tank levels are just part of life for most RVers, so it's a luxury to be able to forget about it once in a while. When we're in a full hook-up RV park for an extended stay, leaving the gray valve open allows us to take longer showers, while completely ignoring the level in the gray tank. We just use the trick we demonstrated in the video to prevent sewer odors from coming in through the open gray valve.
Then all we need to do is keep an occasional eye on the black tank level. Since we often take the load (sorry) off the black tank by making periodic use of the park's bathrooms (as long as they're clean), it takes a solid (sorry again lol) two weeks or more to fill it up. When it shows 3/4 full, we close the gray valve for a day or two, allowing gray water to accumulate in the tank.
When we're ready to dump, we take a few seconds to put the entire sewer hose back up on the sewer hose support, then dump both tanks, black first of course. Plenty of water has now accumulated in the gray tank, allowing us to flush the sewer hose after dumping the black tank. When we stay in one place for an extended period, we appreciate being able to completely ignore both tanks for two-plus weeks at a time. This way of managing our tanks allows us to do that.
This is a perfectly fine way to handle shorter stays too. After boondocking for extended periods, we'll sometimes treat ourselves to the luxury of full hook-ups for a week or so, leaving the gray valve open and using the same sewer hose technique. We simply close the gray valve a day or two before we'll be leaving the park, and dump both tanks on the morning of our departure.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
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