Accurate pressure readings can only be taken before you drive on your tires, while they're still cold. But are you positive that the readings are accurate, even if you haven’t driven on them yet? It's possible that you shouldn't be so sure.
Even if you're diligent about checking your tires before every trip, this quick tip could help you avoid inadvertently driving on tires with low pressure.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Saturday, October 11, 2014
Monday, October 6, 2014
How To Inflate RV Tires The Easy Way
We’ve changed the way we add air to our RV’s tires. Before, we used our diesel pusher’s onboard air compressor, but this new way applies to any type of RV, so this tip isn’t just for owners of large motorhomes.
If you’ve seen our previous videos about adding air to high-pressure tires on diesel RVs, you know that using the built-in compressor might not be as simple as it sounds. Besides the problem of the pressure cycling up and then down below our required tire pressures as part of its normal operation, we also try to avoid idling our engine more than absolutely necessary. We hate being an annoying neighbor by polluting a campground with diesel exhaust and noise just because our tires happen to need air.
While the unit shown in this video is fairly expensive, we decided that this high quality piece of equipment was worth the investment for us. It not only makes our tire maintenance easier, but allows us to be better campground neighbors. If you'd like to purchase one for yourself, you can find it here on Amazon, where it gets absolutely stellar ratings: http://bit.ly/viair-400p-rv
UPDATE 10/18/14: The best price on Amazon is typically about $250. If you're seeing it listed for closer to $295, it means that Amazon has sold out and they're referring the listing to another Amazon seller. Just come back soon and check again, because Amazon's inventory updates regularly. Sorry that we're apparently helping them sell these things out! :)
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
If you’ve seen our previous videos about adding air to high-pressure tires on diesel RVs, you know that using the built-in compressor might not be as simple as it sounds. Besides the problem of the pressure cycling up and then down below our required tire pressures as part of its normal operation, we also try to avoid idling our engine more than absolutely necessary. We hate being an annoying neighbor by polluting a campground with diesel exhaust and noise just because our tires happen to need air.
While the unit shown in this video is fairly expensive, we decided that this high quality piece of equipment was worth the investment for us. It not only makes our tire maintenance easier, but allows us to be better campground neighbors. If you'd like to purchase one for yourself, you can find it here on Amazon, where it gets absolutely stellar ratings: http://bit.ly/viair-400p-rv
UPDATE 10/18/14: The best price on Amazon is typically about $250. If you're seeing it listed for closer to $295, it means that Amazon has sold out and they're referring the listing to another Amazon seller. Just come back soon and check again, because Amazon's inventory updates regularly. Sorry that we're apparently helping them sell these things out! :)
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Tuesday, September 23, 2014
RV Tire Age, Care & Replacement
Do RV tires really have to be replaced every 5, 6 or 7 years? How can you tell how old your tires are? How can you make them last as long as possible? Here’s how to get the most life and use out of your RV tires.
Unlike car tires, which are usually replaced because the treads are worn out, RVs are often driven far fewer miles each year. Most RV tires have to be replaced due to age long before the tread is worn out and our tires are no exception. Even though there’s plenty of tread left, it’s almost time for new rubber.
We’ll be replacing our original tires soon, because this spring our motorhome will be 10 years old. Now before you start e-mailing to tell us that RV tires can’t be used for more than 5 or 6 or 7 years, watch this entire video. We’ll show you how we’ve safely driven on the same tires for nearly a decade.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Unlike car tires, which are usually replaced because the treads are worn out, RVs are often driven far fewer miles each year. Most RV tires have to be replaced due to age long before the tread is worn out and our tires are no exception. Even though there’s plenty of tread left, it’s almost time for new rubber.
We’ll be replacing our original tires soon, because this spring our motorhome will be 10 years old. Now before you start e-mailing to tell us that RV tires can’t be used for more than 5 or 6 or 7 years, watch this entire video. We’ll show you how we’ve safely driven on the same tires for nearly a decade.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Friday, September 5, 2014
Our RV Windshield Screens Are Driving Us Batty!
We love our RV's windshield screens. On hot, sunny days, the large front and side windows on a motorhome can radiate an intense amount of heat into the RV's interior. Windshield screens make a huge difference, keeping us a lot cooler inside, especially when we're boondocking (when we rarely use the A/C).
Any RVer spending much time in warm climates will benefit from these simple, comfort-enhancing devices.The mesh design allows us to see out, while giving us added privacy, since you can’t see in from outside during the daytime.
Obviously we love them, but today it seems like we’re not the only ones who feel that way.
So what happened? Watch the video to find out! ;-)
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Any RVer spending much time in warm climates will benefit from these simple, comfort-enhancing devices.The mesh design allows us to see out, while giving us added privacy, since you can’t see in from outside during the daytime.
Obviously we love them, but today it seems like we’re not the only ones who feel that way.
So what happened? Watch the video to find out! ;-)
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Sunday, August 31, 2014
LED Your RV - Part 5 - Docking & Patio Lights, Plus a $250 Giveaway!
In Part 5 of our LED Your RV series, we’re replacing our RV’s docking and patio lights with cool, bright, low-power LEDs. We’re also excited to announce our newest RVgeeks Contest! On September 15, 2014 at 8pm Pacific Time, one lucky RVgeeks viewer will win a $250 Online Shopping Certificate, which they can use to outfit their RV with brand new LEDs!
Watch the video for details, then enter for your chance to win!
By definition, “boondocking” means there’s no external source of electricity for your RV. But camping off the grid often means there’s no external source of outdoor light either. If you need light outside your RV at night, you’ll need to provide it yourself, at a time when you’re least likely to have power to spare.
We’ve been upgrading our RV’s interior lights to LEDs, but we also want plenty of exterior light available, while using as little power as possible. That means upgrading our incandescent patio and docking lights to LEDs, which are much brighter, but use only 1/4 to 1/6 the power. This video will show you how easy it is.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Watch the video for details, then enter for your chance to win!
By definition, “boondocking” means there’s no external source of electricity for your RV. But camping off the grid often means there’s no external source of outdoor light either. If you need light outside your RV at night, you’ll need to provide it yourself, at a time when you’re least likely to have power to spare.
We’ve been upgrading our RV’s interior lights to LEDs, but we also want plenty of exterior light available, while using as little power as possible. That means upgrading our incandescent patio and docking lights to LEDs, which are much brighter, but use only 1/4 to 1/6 the power. This video will show you how easy it is.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Monday, August 25, 2014
How To Install an RV Window Awning
Window awnings keep your RV cooler and they're easy to install, too! We'll show you EVERY step needed to perform this simple DIY task with confidence.
Like many RVs, ours came from the factory with some awnings already in place. Of course we have a large main patio awning, one over the door, one over the bedroom window on the curb side, and a long one covering both living room windows on the driver's side.
The only large window without a dedicated awning is in the living room on the curb side. Obviously, the manufacturer assumed that the patio awning would do the job of blocking the sun from that window.
There are times when it's imprudent to have our main awning out, like on really windy days, or when we're away from the RV and don't want to risk damage in the event of a sudden weather change (considering the consequences, we'd rather not rely on our awning's wind sensor).
The worst scenario is a hot, windy day while we're dry camping, as we generally try to avoid running the generator for A/C unless it's absolutely needed. Blocking direct sun by using windshield screens and awnings makes a major difference in the comfort level inside the RV. As we always want the option of blocking the sun from the right-side living room window (especially since we often face that side of the rig to the south when we're boondocking), we need an awning specifically for that window.
Before placing our order for a matching A&E / Dometic awning, we noted the color code of the fabric and hardware from our original awnings and measured the window to determine what size we'd need. We're taking advantage of the extra space on each side to order one that's wider than usual, extending 9 inches out on each side of the window. That will keep more sun off the side of the RV and prevent it from raining in if we leave the window open on wet days.
We've had our rig for over 9 years, and we're finally installing that awning that we've always talked about. It's the perfect DIY project and we’ll show you exactly how it’s done. It's such an easy job that we're not sure what took us so long to finally get around to it!
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Like many RVs, ours came from the factory with some awnings already in place. Of course we have a large main patio awning, one over the door, one over the bedroom window on the curb side, and a long one covering both living room windows on the driver's side.
The only large window without a dedicated awning is in the living room on the curb side. Obviously, the manufacturer assumed that the patio awning would do the job of blocking the sun from that window.
There are times when it's imprudent to have our main awning out, like on really windy days, or when we're away from the RV and don't want to risk damage in the event of a sudden weather change (considering the consequences, we'd rather not rely on our awning's wind sensor).
The worst scenario is a hot, windy day while we're dry camping, as we generally try to avoid running the generator for A/C unless it's absolutely needed. Blocking direct sun by using windshield screens and awnings makes a major difference in the comfort level inside the RV. As we always want the option of blocking the sun from the right-side living room window (especially since we often face that side of the rig to the south when we're boondocking), we need an awning specifically for that window.
Before placing our order for a matching A&E / Dometic awning, we noted the color code of the fabric and hardware from our original awnings and measured the window to determine what size we'd need. We're taking advantage of the extra space on each side to order one that's wider than usual, extending 9 inches out on each side of the window. That will keep more sun off the side of the RV and prevent it from raining in if we leave the window open on wet days.
We've had our rig for over 9 years, and we're finally installing that awning that we've always talked about. It's the perfect DIY project and we’ll show you exactly how it’s done. It's such an easy job that we're not sure what took us so long to finally get around to it!
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Saturday, August 9, 2014
Do you keep your RV gray valve open? Closed? How about BOTH?!
Leaving your RV’s gray valve open when fully hooked up allows you to take long showers without worrying about dumping or filling up the gray tank. But what about sewer smells that can come up from the campground sewer system? Here’s how to get the best of both worlds!
One of the luxuries of staying in a full-hook-up campground is the ability to use water freely for showers, cooking and washing dishes. The sewer connection allows you to leave your RV’s gray valve open, so water can run right out instead of filling up your gray tank.
Of course the black valve can NEVER be left open, since “solids” will build up in the black holding tank when the “liquids” run out. But there’s a fair amount of discussion about the gray valve. Some people recommend that you should never leave the gray valve open either, as it can allow odors from the park’s sewer system up into your RV.
Leaving the gray valve closed does mean having to pay attention to the water level in the gray tank, and dumping it every few days. Seems like a shame to have to do that when your RV is connected to a sewer line, especially when you’re staying in a full hook-up site for an extended period of time.
Even though the drains under every sink and shower in an RV are equipped with a p-trap, there is a pipe with a direct connection to the sewer hose…. leading to the tank vents on the roof of the RV. This can allow air from the sewer system to come up through the roof vents. If you’ve ever smelled sewer odors in a full hook-up campground, it’s possible that someone’s RV is venting the park’s sewer system out through their roof.
In a recent RV Travel newsletter, we read about the simplest way imaginable to enjoy the luxury of a full hook-up RV park. You can leave your gray valve in the open position so water runs right down the drain. You don’t have to pay any attention to how full your gray tank is and you don’t have to dump it every few days. But there’s no chance for sewer odors to escape either. It’s the best of both worlds.
Watch the video to see how to do it!
Please use your full hook-up powers responsibly and don’t waste water!
Just a brief follow-up... Although this wasn't a video about tank dumping, it is related, and there were some comments and questions about it. If the gray valve is left open, there isn't any gray water available to flush the sewer hose after dumping the black tank. Here's how we handle that.
Conserving water and monitoring tank levels are just part of life for most RVers, so it's a luxury to be able to forget about it once in a while. When we're in a full hook-up RV park for an extended stay, leaving the gray valve open allows us to take longer showers, while completely ignoring the level in the gray tank. We just use the trick we demonstrated in the video to prevent sewer odors from coming in through the open gray valve.
Then all we need to do is keep an occasional eye on the black tank level. Since we often take the load (sorry) off the black tank by making periodic use of the park's bathrooms (as long as they're clean), it takes a solid (sorry again lol) two weeks or more to fill it up. When it shows 3/4 full, we close the gray valve for a day or two, allowing gray water to accumulate in the tank.
When we're ready to dump, we take a few seconds to put the entire sewer hose back up on the sewer hose support, then dump both tanks, black first of course. Plenty of water has now accumulated in the gray tank, allowing us to flush the sewer hose after dumping the black tank. When we stay in one place for an extended period, we appreciate being able to completely ignore both tanks for two-plus weeks at a time. This way of managing our tanks allows us to do that.
This is a perfectly fine way to handle shorter stays too. After boondocking for extended periods, we'll sometimes treat ourselves to the luxury of full hook-ups for a week or so, leaving the gray valve open and using the same sewer hose technique. We simply close the gray valve a day or two before we'll be leaving the park, and dump both tanks on the morning of our departure.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
One of the luxuries of staying in a full-hook-up campground is the ability to use water freely for showers, cooking and washing dishes. The sewer connection allows you to leave your RV’s gray valve open, so water can run right out instead of filling up your gray tank.
Of course the black valve can NEVER be left open, since “solids” will build up in the black holding tank when the “liquids” run out. But there’s a fair amount of discussion about the gray valve. Some people recommend that you should never leave the gray valve open either, as it can allow odors from the park’s sewer system up into your RV.
Leaving the gray valve closed does mean having to pay attention to the water level in the gray tank, and dumping it every few days. Seems like a shame to have to do that when your RV is connected to a sewer line, especially when you’re staying in a full hook-up site for an extended period of time.
Even though the drains under every sink and shower in an RV are equipped with a p-trap, there is a pipe with a direct connection to the sewer hose…. leading to the tank vents on the roof of the RV. This can allow air from the sewer system to come up through the roof vents. If you’ve ever smelled sewer odors in a full hook-up campground, it’s possible that someone’s RV is venting the park’s sewer system out through their roof.
In a recent RV Travel newsletter, we read about the simplest way imaginable to enjoy the luxury of a full hook-up RV park. You can leave your gray valve in the open position so water runs right down the drain. You don’t have to pay any attention to how full your gray tank is and you don’t have to dump it every few days. But there’s no chance for sewer odors to escape either. It’s the best of both worlds.
Watch the video to see how to do it!
Please use your full hook-up powers responsibly and don’t waste water!
Just a brief follow-up... Although this wasn't a video about tank dumping, it is related, and there were some comments and questions about it. If the gray valve is left open, there isn't any gray water available to flush the sewer hose after dumping the black tank. Here's how we handle that.
Conserving water and monitoring tank levels are just part of life for most RVers, so it's a luxury to be able to forget about it once in a while. When we're in a full hook-up RV park for an extended stay, leaving the gray valve open allows us to take longer showers, while completely ignoring the level in the gray tank. We just use the trick we demonstrated in the video to prevent sewer odors from coming in through the open gray valve.
Then all we need to do is keep an occasional eye on the black tank level. Since we often take the load (sorry) off the black tank by making periodic use of the park's bathrooms (as long as they're clean), it takes a solid (sorry again lol) two weeks or more to fill it up. When it shows 3/4 full, we close the gray valve for a day or two, allowing gray water to accumulate in the tank.
When we're ready to dump, we take a few seconds to put the entire sewer hose back up on the sewer hose support, then dump both tanks, black first of course. Plenty of water has now accumulated in the gray tank, allowing us to flush the sewer hose after dumping the black tank. When we stay in one place for an extended period, we appreciate being able to completely ignore both tanks for two-plus weeks at a time. This way of managing our tanks allows us to do that.
This is a perfectly fine way to handle shorter stays too. After boondocking for extended periods, we'll sometimes treat ourselves to the luxury of full hook-ups for a week or so, leaving the gray valve open and using the same sewer hose technique. We simply close the gray valve a day or two before we'll be leaving the park, and dump both tanks on the morning of our departure.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Saturday, July 26, 2014
Converting RV Lights to LEDs Part 4: 12-inch Fluorescents
LEDs are such a hot topic. One of our most popular videos demonstrates how we used inexpensive strip lights to convert our fluorescent fixtures to LED. Our videos on switching incandescent and halogen bulbs to LEDs have also been very popular.
There's been so much interest that we wanted to share the details about the new higher-end technique we’re using to upgrade the rest of our fluorescent fixtures. This video covers the steps needed to convert 12″ fluorescent tubes using beautifully-designed LED tubes. They're more expensive than the cheap strip lights, but the quality and elegance of the bulb designs are really sweet!
M4 Products, the company that sells them, even offered to give a discount to RVgeeks viewers. If you shop at M4products.com, simply use the code "RVgeeks5" when you check out, and you'll get a 5% discount off your entire purchase. :)
Since 12″ fixtures are upgraded to LED in a different way than 12″ fixtures, we’re creating two separate videos. If you want to see how to convert an 18″ fluorescent fixture to LED, there's a link at the end of the video and in the video description, or you can see our post about it here.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
There's been so much interest that we wanted to share the details about the new higher-end technique we’re using to upgrade the rest of our fluorescent fixtures. This video covers the steps needed to convert 12″ fluorescent tubes using beautifully-designed LED tubes. They're more expensive than the cheap strip lights, but the quality and elegance of the bulb designs are really sweet!
M4 Products, the company that sells them, even offered to give a discount to RVgeeks viewers. If you shop at M4products.com, simply use the code "RVgeeks5" when you check out, and you'll get a 5% discount off your entire purchase. :)
Since 12″ fixtures are upgraded to LED in a different way than 12″ fixtures, we’re creating two separate videos. If you want to see how to convert an 18″ fluorescent fixture to LED, there's a link at the end of the video and in the video description, or you can see our post about it here.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Converting RV Lights to LEDs Part 3: 18-inch Fluorescents
LEDs are such a hot topic. One of our most popular videos demonstrates how we used inexpensive strip lights to convert our fluorescent fixtures to LED. Our videos on switching incandescent and halogen bulbs to LEDs have also been very popular.
There's been so much interest that we wanted to share the details about the new higher-end technique we’re using to upgrade the rest of our fluorescent fixtures. This video covers the steps needed to convert 18″ fluorescent tubes using beautifully-designed LED tubes. They're more expensive than the cheap strip lights, but the quality and elegance of the bulb designs are really sweet!
M4 Products, the company that sells them, even offered to give a discount to RVgeeks viewers. If you shop at M4products.com, simply use the code "RVgeeks5" when you check out, and you'll get a 5% discount off your entire purchase. :)
Since 18″ fixtures are upgraded to LED in a different way than 12″ fixtures, we’re creating two separate videos. If you want to see how to convert a 12″ fluorescent fixture to LED, there's a link at the end of the video and in the video description, or you can see our post about it here.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
There's been so much interest that we wanted to share the details about the new higher-end technique we’re using to upgrade the rest of our fluorescent fixtures. This video covers the steps needed to convert 18″ fluorescent tubes using beautifully-designed LED tubes. They're more expensive than the cheap strip lights, but the quality and elegance of the bulb designs are really sweet!
M4 Products, the company that sells them, even offered to give a discount to RVgeeks viewers. If you shop at M4products.com, simply use the code "RVgeeks5" when you check out, and you'll get a 5% discount off your entire purchase. :)
Since 18″ fixtures are upgraded to LED in a different way than 12″ fixtures, we’re creating two separate videos. If you want to see how to convert a 12″ fluorescent fixture to LED, there's a link at the end of the video and in the video description, or you can see our post about it here.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Friday, July 4, 2014
The RVs of Scotland - United Kingdom Motorhomes & Caravans
We've just returned from an awesome two-week trip to Scotland, where we saw more motorhomes, caravans, sites and pitches than we ever expected... especially since we just learned what some of those terms mean!
Starting in Glasgow, we headed northwest to the Scottish Highlands, visiting the Isles of Mull, Iona and Skye, then north to Ullapool & Thurso, across to the Orkney Islands, down to Inverness and St. Andrews, and on to Edinburgh.
Come along for the ride while we share everything we learned about RVing in the United Kingdom.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Starting in Glasgow, we headed northwest to the Scottish Highlands, visiting the Isles of Mull, Iona and Skye, then north to Ullapool & Thurso, across to the Orkney Islands, down to Inverness and St. Andrews, and on to Edinburgh.
Come along for the ride while we share everything we learned about RVing in the United Kingdom.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Tuesday, May 27, 2014
How to Make an Emergency Mousetrap
So there we were.... enjoying a quiet evening during a week-long boondocking trip in a remote part of southern Utah. We had the lights in the RV down low, when we thought we spotted something moving in the shadows up front near the driver’s seat. Sure enough, a little field mouse had somehow gotten on board.
We’d never had a mouse on the RV before, so we didn’t have any mousetraps. Even if we were anywhere near a store, they’d surely be closed this late at night. But we were eager to catch him before he could do any damage, so we had to figure out how to make a mousetrap with items we had around the RV.
Watch this short video to see how we did it.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
We’d never had a mouse on the RV before, so we didn’t have any mousetraps. Even if we were anywhere near a store, they’d surely be closed this late at night. But we were eager to catch him before he could do any damage, so we had to figure out how to make a mousetrap with items we had around the RV.
Watch this short video to see how we did it.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Wednesday, March 12, 2014
How to Find Free Overnight RV Parking
We're excited to announce our very first RVgeeks Contest! Ten lucky winners will each receive a free 1-year subscription to our favorite resource for locating free overnight places to park your RV - OvernightRVParking.com - prizes worth a total of nearly $250.
Watch the video below for details, then visit our website to enter for your chance to win!
Click Here to visit HowToRVgeeks.com and enter!
The contest ends on Monday, March 24, 2014 at 6 pm Pacific time, so be sure to enter today!
Like many RVers, we like to camp in a wide variety of locations. Even with our big rig, we spend time in National Park and National Forest campgrounds, boondocking on BLM land, in commercial RV parks and we even splurge occasionally on high-end RV resorts.
But when we're in transit between those locations, OvernightRVParking.com has become one of our top trip-planning resources, currently listing over 11,000 locations around the US and Canada.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Watch the video below for details, then visit our website to enter for your chance to win!
Click Here to visit HowToRVgeeks.com and enter!
The contest ends on Monday, March 24, 2014 at 6 pm Pacific time, so be sure to enter today!
Like many RVers, we like to camp in a wide variety of locations. Even with our big rig, we spend time in National Park and National Forest campgrounds, boondocking on BLM land, in commercial RV parks and we even splurge occasionally on high-end RV resorts.
But when we're in transit between those locations, OvernightRVParking.com has become one of our top trip-planning resources, currently listing over 11,000 locations around the US and Canada.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Thursday, March 6, 2014
How To Replace an RV Awning
Our favorite type of DIY RV project is one that's both surprisingly manageable and also saves a lot of money. Replacing your RV's patio awning fabric fits that description really well. A confident DIY RVer with a couple of friends can handle this job just fine, saving well over half the cost of having it done at an RV shop. If you thought that replacing your old vinyl main awning was out of your league as a Do-it-Yourselfer, watch this first and you just might change your mind!
We know that a lot of people are afraid of "The Spring!" on an awning, but under the personal guidance of Tough Top Awnings owner Ray Oberreuter, we saw how the whole process was really manageable.
We purchased slide topper replacement fabric a few years ago from Tough Top Awnings. When we opened the box, it was immediately obvious that it was superior to the original fabric (double-stitched, very tight weave and noticeably thicker) and also less expensive than OEM replacement material. Their main patio awnings are no different. Excellent quality at a great price.
Ray was very responsive when we had questions during the ordering process and he obviously takes pride in making a superior product at a lower price. When we decided to replace our bedroom slide toppers last year, it was a no-brainer to order from Tough Top Awnings again. You can get more details by visiting their website:
www.toughtopawnings.com
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
We know that a lot of people are afraid of "The Spring!" on an awning, but under the personal guidance of Tough Top Awnings owner Ray Oberreuter, we saw how the whole process was really manageable.
We purchased slide topper replacement fabric a few years ago from Tough Top Awnings. When we opened the box, it was immediately obvious that it was superior to the original fabric (double-stitched, very tight weave and noticeably thicker) and also less expensive than OEM replacement material. Their main patio awnings are no different. Excellent quality at a great price.
Ray was very responsive when we had questions during the ordering process and he obviously takes pride in making a superior product at a lower price. When we decided to replace our bedroom slide toppers last year, it was a no-brainer to order from Tough Top Awnings again. You can get more details by visiting their website:
www.toughtopawnings.com
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Friday, February 14, 2014
Solar Maximus! Optimizing the Sun When RV Boondocking
Unlike a campsite in an RV park, when you're wild camping (or if your prefer - boondocking, dry camping or RVing off the cord) in a remote location like Quartzsite, AZ, you can usually park your RV facing any direction you want to.
Here are some tips on how we get the most out of the sun when we're camping off the grid. These tips are especially useful for winter snowbirding, when nights are cool, days can be warm, and the sun never gets very high in the sky.
We hope these ideas help you make the most out of the sun when you're camping in the middle of nowhere.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Here are some tips on how we get the most out of the sun when we're camping off the grid. These tips are especially useful for winter snowbirding, when nights are cool, days can be warm, and the sun never gets very high in the sky.
We hope these ideas help you make the most out of the sun when you're camping in the middle of nowhere.
We don't pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But many systems are the same on different RVs. The advice we give works well for us, but be sure to consult a professional technician if you're unsure about working on your own RV.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)